Campfires No 9 - Broome to Dampier Peninsular

Hi Guys,

How quickly time is flying.  We hit Broome and have been on the road now for almost 3 and half months and unfortunately that means we have passed the half way mark and will be making our way back across the top end after our trip up to the Dampier Peninsular, but more about that later.  Lets talk about Broome first.

Broome is an extremely popular destination at this time of the year not just with travelers from the east coast but lots of grey nomads make their annual migration North from Perth up to the warmer parts of WA and knowing this we booked our caravan site back in October last year but made one mistake.  We didn't look at when school holidays were and yes you guessed it they started the day we arrived in Broome. We were lucky though as just by fluke the park we picked had very few kids staying and those that were seemed to be very well behaved and very quiet.

On our first day we went to the famous Cable Beach and just as it was the last time we were here some 20 years ago it is still one of our favourite beaches.  The beach stretches for miles however is separated by a rock bank.  To the south of the rocks is the family beach and on the northern side is the 4WD access and nudist beach.  The sand is firm almost like driving on a road in most parts and you can drive along it for about 10km before its starts getting soft. 

Cable Beach

Cable Beach Rocks that you drive between when getting on and off the beach

Cable Beach (looking North)

The famous Cable Beach Camels

Cable Beach Camels

Whilst we spent a lot of time at the beach there was also lots of other things to see and do and one of them was to explore some of the free camping spots we had heard about some 70k's North of Broome so we thought we would venture up and check them out to see if they were caravan friendly roads as we had heard conflicting stories.  The camping spots we found at these area's were absolutely beautiful from prime cliffside positions to large sites right on the beach. Unfortunately, after driving the dirt roads and the many km's of corrugation, the decision at the time was not to take the vans back there.  In hind sight however after some of the roads we did on our move to our next location we could have easily accessed these free area's and saved some money. 

James Price Point

Camping area James Price

Quandong Cliff camps

Our next big adventure was one we had all been very excited about as we had booked months in advance and this was to see the Horizontal Fall. We had booked a half day tour with a 5am pickup (unfortunately for us its was one of Broome's coldest mornings and the bus was 30 minutes late so standing there in thongs and shorts was not much fun and the short ride to the airport didn't even allow time for our feet to thaw out.  We arrived at the hanger and then after some admin were taken to our sea plane which would fly us out to the pontoon from which we would end up doing the boat ride into the falls from.  The flight took about an hour and the views were magnificent only to be surpassed by the trip back where we flew directly over the falls and to ensure both sides of the plane get the experience the pilot did two runs over them.

The landing on water in a plane is an experience in its self especially as you see the water spraying up the sides of the plane but it was a very smooth landing indeed.  The plane then taxi's to the pontoon where we are greeted and taken up to a seating area for breakfast, but before that our lucky group would be the first to do the shark feeding.  Now I was in no rush to do this as it was still quite cool but Tricia, Judy and Len were in the water before anyone one else could blink.  They entered the caged area and move up to the rail where they are given instructions about how to feed and not loose fingers and then are given some food.  I must say watching this and then doing it myself was awesome.

We were then given breakfast, a safety brief, life jackets and then it was into the fast boats for the trip of a lifetime. First we were taken to see where they store the pontoon during cyclone season and then it was off to the falls.  I don't really know what I expected but this did surpass all my expectations.  Seeing thousands of litres of water moving between to rocks faces approx 20m apart on the first entrance and 8m apart on the second creates this phenomenon of a horizontal waterfall as the land on both sides is land locked so this is the only way in and out which is what has created this spectacular site.  To give you an idea of how fast the water moves the skipper (driver of the boat) on one of our runs, stopped the boat mid way through the falls but the boat was doing 50km/h whilst sitting there.   We must have gone though the fall at least four or five times but unfortunately they are now only allowed to enter the first falls and it is likely that in the next year or two this will be stopped as well, as it will be deemed a sacred site like Ayres Rock. 

Anyway after our return we got into our seaplanes and did the return trip that not only went over the falls but followed the coastline all the way back to Broome so the view was breathtaking.

Excited and on the plane

Arrival at Pontoon

Pontoon and Boat for falls

Tricia and Judy

Tricia braving the cold morning water

Judy & Len feeding the sharks

Hungry Tawny Nurse Sharks

Going into the main falls

Hovering in the falls

Getting as close to the narrow falls as allowed

The Horizontal falls from above

Horizontal Falls from the plane

Like all good things must come to an end and our time in Broome was now up.  Our next and final destination in our travel with Judy and Len was called Goombaragin Eco Resort and is located about 200 km north of Broome on the Dampier Peninsular.  Once we left the bitumen we then had another 20 plus kilometers of very rough corrugated dirt and sand road to drive but the discomfort was gone as soon as we arrived and saw what a beautiful place this was.  We were met by Kathleen the owner and given a tour of the area which consists of a couple of eco tents and only two caravan sites that sit on the cliffs of Pender bay and we were lucky to have been able to book these two sites for a week. 

The views were amazing and only bettered when pods of dolphins past by.  The beach was only a short walk down the cliffs albeit very steep and rocky.  We fished, walked along the beach, fished some more from the rocks and swam during our time here which we loved so much that we extended another couple of days.  

Drone view of Goombaragin

Cliffs of Goombaragin

Happy Hour view

Sun starting to set

Sun setting over Pender Bay

Taking the car down to the beach

Tricia doing some rock fishing

Me catching nothing as usual

We did leave here once during the week where Tricia and I drove up to the Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm which was about another about 60 km further north. (the road seemed much better on the way out but still crap on the way back).

Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm is a working pearl farm that has a restaurant, bar and a very popular caravan park attached to it.  We walked along the beaches and up to the lookout and before leaving did a 1 hour guided tour of the Pearl farm processing plant which was very interesting indeed. 

Cygnet Bay 

Tricia and I selfie at the Cygnet Bay lookout

One of the oysters opened to show the cultured pearl

The Pearl that came from Shell

Like all things they must end one day and after our five awesome days at Goombaragin we sadly had to say farewell to Judy and Len who were now heading off on their own trip up to Lombadina and Cygnet Bay before they then continue their trip down the West Coast over the next 10 months or so.  But before they do that, the lucky buggers are returning to Goombaragin where they volunteered to be caretakers for a few weeks in August whilst Kathleen travels to Darwin. We are just a little jealous but wish them all the best and thank them for being the perfect travel companions.

Len, Judy, Tricia, Matt and Kathleen at the rear

So now after more than three and a half months of travelling and reaching the top of the West Coast, Tricia and I are turning around and making our way back across the top end to Darwin and then still hoping to do some of the Savannah way across to Cairns before we head back home..

So until the next one, 

Cheers

Matt & Tricia

Campfires No 8 - Old Langley Crossing to Broome

 

Hello everyone, I hope you are all well and keeping warm for those of you in the southern climate.  Well we have made it to Broome, Yay!!.  

So what have we done since we last chatted?  Well we left our crocodile camp and headed South West  with our first overnighter at the Roebuck Roadhouse and tavern which is on the T intersection for either heading south to Port Hedland or for continuing West to Broome and the Dampier Peninsular.  We are heading South but used this so we could duck into Broome and resupply as we were going to be off grid for a couple of weeks.

 Now stocked up again we headed 340 km south, this time to Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park.  The drive was the most boring we have done so far.  The scenery didn't change.  It was flat, so flat that Tricia and I were excited to see even the smallest incline.  However this all changed when we arrived at Eighty Mile Beach.  The caravan park is located right on the beach and is super popular not just with travelers from interstate but lots of people from Perth come up here for the winter and with 30+ degree days and a  beautiful beach who wouldn't.

Eighty Mile Beach is well known for its fishing, being able to drive on the beach and for its shells that get washed up on the beach with each change of tide and it disappoint as Tricia who spent hours walking up and down the beach whenever we stopped for a fish, sunbake or swim and now has a haul of shells for Matilda and Lachlan upon our return.

Low tide Eighty Mile Beach

Tricia with a wee Shovel Nose Shark

Sunset Eighty Mile Beach

Just some of the shells on Eighty Mile Beach

 Eighty Mile Beach Caravan park Unpowered sites

One of the great things about travelling is that you get to hear about great places from other travelers and this is what resulted in us heading a little further south to a place called Cape Kerauden that has self contained sites on the beach and cliff edges.  Upon arriving it was blowing a gale so we looked for the most protected spot and it we ended up on the cliffs overlooking the bay and whilst the wind howled and made it very difficult to fish or sunbake the views were impressive.  The wind persisted for a couple of days and just to have a break from it Tricia and I decided to drive down the 150km to Port Hedland for a alcohol resupply as we determined based on current consumption that if we didn't we wouldn't make it back to Broome.  Port Hedland is a mining town and I must say not very impressive.  We did our resupply and drove along the foreshore which is being redeveloped and may be more inviting when finished before returning to our camp site.

Cape Kerauden

One of the many camp grounds

Getting ready for Sunset

The next day the winds finally subsided and we got to do some fishing and found out from the local ranger where the best position was to see the Stairway to the Moon.  This phenonium only happens for a couple of days when the moon is full and the tides are right.  The picture unfortunately will not do it justice but if you ever get the opportunity to see this it is well worth it.

A spot of fishing

Staircase to the Moon

Our initial 5 day booking was coming to an end but Judy had been scoping out another spot which is located right on Cootenbrand Creek and the current occupants were leaving the next day so we decided we would pack up early and move in behind them so as they departed we could take their perfect spots.  The creek is tidal so a great spot to fish.  Whilst we didn't catch massive amounts of fish, we all caught some whiting, Tricia caught the biggest Bream and Len caught a nice shovel nose shark, so we all got to have a fish dinner.

Fishy Fishy

Dinner

Cootenbrand Creek

Couldn't have got closer if we tried

High Tide - Cootenbrand Creek

Low tide from Drone

Being on a limited time frame before we have to be back Tricia and I only stayed here for 2 nights and then started our trip back up north toward Broome. Judy loved the spot so much they decided to stay another day then drive to Barnhill Station. Our first stop was back at Eighty Mile Beach for a couple of nights and then we headed to Barnhill Station where we would celebrate Tricia's birthday and again meet up again with Judy and Len.

Upon arriving at Barnhill I was not impressed.  It looked like chaos with vans parked every which way and red sand that sticks to everything but after finding one of their very few generator site they had left I was pleasantly surprised to how beautiful the beach was and the general facilities which included a cafe that does pizza's at night.  So Tricia got pizza and red wine for her birthday whilst we also played Pass the Pigs and watched the sunset.

For the next three days we spent our time sunbaking and walking up the beach and admiring the rock formations that have been carved over millions of years. The one that stands out is known as The Cathedral and I guess you can see that if on the right angle.

Barnhill Station Beach (South)

Barnhill Station Beach (North)

The Cathedral

The Cathedral from Drone

So that brings me to now where we are finally in Broome which is the only pre planned booking we had made before departing Brisbane (booked in October 2023) but I will leave our adventures here until the next blog.

Missing you all,

Cheers

Matt & Tricia