Thursday, 30 May 2024

Campfires No 6 - Katherine to Wyndham


Hi Family and Friends,

Us again.  We'll this time we are on our way west into parts that Tricia and I have not done previously do we are excited about what we will get to see. We set a plan that wouldn't drive more than 150km before we stop for the night so we get to see as much as possible.

So we departed Katherine on the Victoria Highway and our first stop was at a roadside rest area.  It was a reasonably large area with a toilet block and plenty of room for caravans so we decided to stay the night. Whilst it had a toilet block I am glad we have our own in the van as it was full and very unclean but we were the first there so we got to pick the best area away from the block and took ownership of the shaded picnic tables.  Throughout the afternoon the site filled and again as it happens in these areas we met some really nice people all doing the same thing but what I still cant understand are the rude people who are quite happy to park in your space but don't have the common courtesy to say hello. Very un Australian.

24 hr rest Area.  First in best dressed
 
 After a great night sleep we started the next leg with our first stop at the Victoria River Road house.  We were greeted buy a local couple sitting in the beer garden with a bottle of wine and a couple of XXXX cans. It was only 10am but I guess it had to be 12 somewhere?.  Anyway we had look around, added some fuel ($2.60Lt) and walked to the old bridge to see if we could see any crocs. sadly none were to be seen. 
Standing on Victoria River old bridge with new bridge above


Victoria River


Back in the car we made our way to Timber Creek.  We arrived at what looked like a local hangout which also had a caravan park at the rear with a pool.  The park was really nice but the pool was freezing.  This seems to be a trend as we move across the north. With the only pub in town being out the front and unfortunately like a lot of the areas in the north security is paramount and even caravan parks are some what fortified however we felt safe and even stayed we stayed for two nights and did make and mend activities including a much needed hand wash of the Caravan. 

Timber creek Van park

Our next stop was then about 13 km from the WA border.  Nothing there just a gravel pit but we needed to have a final cook up before we crossed the border the next morning. WA has very strict quarantine rules on what fruit and vegetables can and can't be taken into the state so we needed to ensure we used everything prior to departing.  No one else there but the four of us so we played a few games and ate all the contraband.

Roadside Contraband Consumption stop

WA Border with inspection Station at rear

The WA border was now in sight which is located  just before the quarantine inspection site, so of course we had to stop for the obligatory photo. We then drove into inspection area and where greeted by two lovely ladies that looked like they could be prison wardens...  Even though I knew we had nothing except Honey which we would hand over on inspection; I still had an easy feeling as they asked us a million questions and searched our fridges in the car and caravan and inspected all the fire wood.  We were cleared to leave and were then on our way for the quick drive to Kununurra

Kununurra is busy, very busy as it is not only a major city on the Victoria highway but is only about 100km or so from the start/end of the Gibb River Road but also busy as the Ord Valley Muster is on.  We didn't have any accommodation booked but were lucky to get a couple of spots at the Agriculture Showgrounds where we set up and explored the local area.  Some of the highlights where the Sandalwood shop which just happened to be closing down so of course Tricia and Judy had to make the most of the 50% and buy some incent burners and incense sticks to ward off the pesky mosquito's that eat us as the sun sets.  Just up the road was also a Rum/Gin distillery which was much more my cup of tea.  After doing a tasting I couldn't help myself in purchasing a bottle of their Chocolate & Coffee Rum liquor and Len bought one of his favourite Five Spice Rums.


Aniseed, Chocolate and Coffee Rum Liquors & Gin Tasters


The next day we headed out to a placed called Middle Springs.  This was suggested to us by the campsite Manager.  It was a little out of town and a fair bit of rough dirt roads to get there but it was well worth it.  The lower pool was really nice by we had been told that the ones above were much better, and she was correct.  Whilst they were smaller they were much deeper to swim in, however whilst the outside temp was in low 30's the water was freezing.  Apart from one other couple walking up past no one else interrupted our serenity 


Croc wise - Testing the water depth.  

Ram coming through

Patrol making it look easy
Middle Springs lower swimming hole


Middle creek top swimming holes

View from Middle Springs

The next morning we packed up and went back to Lake Argyle which is one of the largest man-made lakes in the southern hemisphere and home to more than 70 islands.  To give you perspective of how much water it holds we were told that is currently the size of 29 Sydney Harbour's.  So we decided to do a walk along the dam wall, swim in the infinity pool and hire a boat for a morning of fishing and cliff jumping.  After all there are only approx 35000 fresh water crocs in the dam so why wouldn't you go for a swim.  So we did and we survived.  I must admit I was very conscious of my legs and the surroundings when I first jumped in from the boat and then the cliff top, but as Judy and Len had already gone in I figured the crocs would have been eying them off so I should be safe.  We also did a little fishing and Judy caught the first fish which was a good size  for eating but it was a catfish so Len threw it back.  We then caught a couple of other small cat fish and I managed to snap my rod on a snag (I will call it a sleeping crocodile whilst the others claim a tree branch).  Funny thing, when we got back we found out the cat fish that we had been throwing out were apparently a beautiful eating fish.  Who would have thought?

Overflow from Argyle Lakes

View from the Argyle Lake Lookout 

Judy and Len after cliff jumping.

Sunrise over lake Argyle

Sunrise Lake Argyle

Sunrise Lake Argyle

Tricia alone in freezing infinity pool at Lake Argyle

Nothing like a couple of drinks to end the day

Jump Rock....were Judy and Matt braved the crocs

We return to Kununurra the next day as we had booked in to see the Ord Valley Muster Rodeo.  The rodeo was packed with local, lots of grey nomads and ringers from stations across the area.  The beers were expensive but the bull and bronco riding was outstanding.  The only thing that let it down was the MC who was just boring and didn't get this massive crowd involved at all. 


Ord Valley Muster

Ord Valley Muster

Anyway the next day was "Go Day" as Len calls them as it is again time to move on.  This time we were looking for some where not too far from Kununurra as Judy and Len have an issue with the stovetop and new one has been ordered but being in the top end it could be here in a couple of days or a week or more.  So we decided to drive to Wyndham which is the most northerly town in WA and about 100km away.

The drive out was exceptional.  It amazes me at how quickly the land and colours change in very short periods of time.  The Boab trees are everywhere and the red cliff faces are mesmerizing.    The local caravan park is one of the best.  It is clean, has a great pool and all sites are well spaced apart and as it turns out there is plenty to do here as four days later we are still here.

Driving the great Northern Highway to Wyndham

Driving the great Northern Highway to Wyndham

Driving the great Northern Highway to Wyndham


Wyndham Caravan park

On our first day we did the mandatory drive into old Wyndham where the port and old meat works used to be.  The port is now used for iron ore exporting and seems to be running 24h a day.  The town itself was very underwhelming but when you drive up to the Five Rivers Lookout all this is forgotten.  It is spectacular and a perfect place for us to have had a couple of beers whist watching the sun set.  


View of Old Wyndham and the Port











Wyndham sunset from 5 Rivers Lookout

Wyndham sunset from 5 Rivers Lookout

Wyndham sunset from 5 Rivers Lookout


The next day we took a drive out to a bird lovers paradise.  It is a billabong about 8 km off the highway that has been set up with protected viewing platforms and also has a resident crocodile that appears every now and then.  Of course he did not show up whilst we were there.   Our next stop was The Grotto.  This is a swimming hole at the bottom of a gorge and also home to some aboriginal cave markings.  The waterhole was majestic with high walls and deep deep water.  They say more than a hundred metres deep in some spots.  We spent time swimming and then Tricia and I walked along the creek line to find the Aboriginal carvings and painting.  (see pics)

Parry Creek Billabong


Inside the bird hide



The Grotto

The Grotto

Aboriginal Rock Art

Yesterday we decided that we would go to Emma Gorge which is on the sealed section of The Gibb River Road and a part of the El Questro Homestead which I am sure you would have heard of before.  We had always wanted to go and stay there and do the hot springs and gorges they have to offer but after hearing from others on the costs and the packing into sites like sardines we decided a day trip to Emma Gorge would be it and we were not disappointed.   The walk in takes about 45 mins and whilst not difficult I wouldn't do it in the heat of the day.  When you arrive at the top falls it is beautiful.  Shear cliffs and a running 50m waterfall surround the waterhole which just makes it so inviting for a swim.  Even more so after heat the walk in. So a quick change and in we go....  Holly shit it was cold.  But as you moved toward the edge away from the water fall it seemed to warm up a little and we were told that there is a hot spring that feeds in from that side.  

Needless to say we didn't stay in the water for too long but we did walk back down the track to another swimming hole that was in full sun and spent some time there.  



Emma Gorge Top Pool

Looking up from the bottom of Emma Gorge Swimming hole

Emma Springs Water fall



Tricia and Judy at the sunny water hole Emma Gorge



'Just Chillin'

On our way back to the caravan park we went out to local dam and to the see the prison tree which is a massive Boab tree with a hollow center that was used in the late 1800's to imprison Aboriginal offenders as they were walked back to Wyndham to stand trial.


So that now brings us to today and Judy and Len are still waiting on notification of their Stovetop so we decided to stay another day.  Not sure what will happen after today but will keep you posted in the next blog.  

Hope everyone is well and not missing us too much.

Cheers

Matt & Tricia







Saturday, 18 May 2024

Campfires No 5 - Boulia to Katherine



Hi all,
Can't believe how quickly time passes.  We have now been on the road for 7 weeks.  In my last blog we were at Boulia and had the perfect spot.  Well that was until I had sent the blog.  Unknown to us at the time there was a funeral in town for an Elder and relatives had come from all over Queensland. Now we had the perfect camp ground, so perfect that following the funeral a group of 30 or more (some already very intoxicated) decided that they would set up  bush camp on the sand in front of us.  

They were kind enough to let us know that they would be playing loud music that we "would" like it and also that they were from Townsville. So now knowing this, in record time packed up our gypsy wagon and we were off.  We only had to drive about 10 minutes out of town were we found a spot to have a peaceful night sleep. 

Our new overnight spot after the invasion

Enjoying our Yabbies
Beautiful Sunrise


Passing a couple of Road Trains

NT Border going to Tobermorey

Len & Judy at the Border










We then drove out to Tobermorey which is in the middle of no where on a road known as Australia's longest shortcut (full length goes from Laverton WA to Winton in Qld).  This road will take you from Boulia to Alice Springs but a majority of it is dirt road.   Tobermorey is a 1.8 million Acre working cattle station that also has a caravan park and a Bar for the dry season and sites on the NT side of the border but as their closest facilities are in QLD they work off Queensland time. Upon our arrival we met up with Tannas and her family who were in the process of cutting up a couple of cows and making a shed load of sausages so they and the staff would have meat for the next couple of weeks or so.  That evening we were asked to join them for a few drinks and a bbq where we met some of the ringers that work on the station and also that come in from stations nearby for a catchup.  It was a great evening spent standing around an awesome BBQ and Firepit (Pic below)

We awoke to a beautiful day and decided to do a 200km round trip down toward the bottom of their station to Aroota which is where the staff stayed when out doing fencing and mustering etc. The drive was amazing and we got to see so many different landscapes.  (Pics below).  

Arriving at Tobermorey


Camp ground

Tricia feeding one of the Poddy Calves


Best BBQ Ever



Aroota (Camp for Mustering and Fencing work)

Aroota Camp

The following morning we were off again  but this time we heading back into QLD and making our way to Mary Kathleen which is an old Uranium site just outside Mount Isa  the free camp is in the old town square which is now just cement blocks and if you get in early you can set up on one of these.  We unfortunately didn't get there early enough but still had a good site. Once unhooked we headed off to see the mine site and were not disappointed.  It was a beautiful clear blue hole where you could still see the yellow in the cliff walls. 

Mary Kathleen

I decided I would put the new drone up for a look and learnt a very valuable lesson in the process.  In my haste to get some great shots I forgot to reset the Return to Home altitude which was set at 40m.  What this means is that if the the drone needs to return to home or I request it to come back, it will will either rise or lower to the set altitude and will automatically return to its home position.  Well as I said I had it set at 40m and hit the button to Return home.  That's where it all went wrong.  The Hill that I was flying over was apparently 44m high so as my drone dropped to 40m it flew into the side of the mountain.   All I can say is, lucky it had GPS and after some very steep climbing up the side of the hill I was lucky enough to be able to recover it.   



View after the crash












The next morning we did a resupply in Mount Isa and also had an Auto Electrician look at our Caravan battery as it was still loosing power quickly.  $2500 later and a new battery we were off this time heading to Katherine.  This took us a couple of days with an overnight stop at a spectacular Billabong at Camooweal. There must have been 20 plus caravans already there and more arrived after we had set up.  Rumor has it this free camp site won't be available for much longer as it being handed back to the  local First Nations people.
Drone photo of Camooweal Free Camp


Sun Setting over Camooweal

The next morning we crossed the border back into NT and then spent a night at the Barkly Homestead and then the following night at Daly Waters which was packed with grey nomads.  Our next destination was Bitter Springs where we stayed for 3 nights.  Tricia's brother came down from Darwin and we spent the weekend swimming in both the Bitter and Mataranka Springs. My favourite however was Bitter Springs as you were able to float down stream for about 400m and then a short walk back and do it all again.  (Not sure I would have done this but Deano, Tricia's brother did it by himself at night).

Sunset at the Barkly Homestead

Sunset at the Barkly Homestead

Rolling Cloud Sunset at the Barkly Homestead

Daly Waters Hotel

Enjoying a nice cold drink at Daly Waters Hotel

Happy Snap



Mataranka Hot Springs

Tricia & Deano


Our final stop before heading west was Katherine.  Now this town does have a reputation and I can say it lives up to it.  We decided not to stay in town and were lucky enough to get a hip camp about 20 Km outside the township near Katherine Gorge.  The four of us were the only ones there and were lucky that there was still water in the creek.  We were assured it was croc free so spent most of our time sitting in the cool water however we were attacked by a critter that I have never seen before.  It looked liked a cockroach and would bury itself in the sand and then when you weren't looking it would nip your skin.  It didn't hurt to much and didn't leave any marks. It just took us by surprise every time.

Our Creek to ourselves

We are now on the road again and heading west toward Kununarra with the many many many other caravanners doing exactly the same thing. We hope everyone is well and that you don't miss us too much.  

Campfires No 11 Daly River - Cobbold Gorge

Hello Again, Well we have now been on the road for nearly five months and whilst it may seem like a long time it has gone so fast and is a ...